MTB2 kit questions...please help!

[eagle-co94]

I have limited shop time available to work on the car (dealing with German and U.S. laws so it has to stay at the shop for now)

What size alternator belt is everyone using? The kit makes no mention of the belt.

What does the mount on the rear of the frame connect to? I'm ready to drop my motor into the subframe and can't figure out what it connects to.

What fuel pump are you using and how did you mount it?

I'll have more questions after I get to the shop tomorrow I'm sure.

If it helps I'm installing the MTB2 kit in my '85 Austin Mini Mayfair with stock body panels in place. The drivetrain is a B18C5.

[Red Riley]

Just looked at the instructions on the MiniTec website, and it does say that you'll need to measure the distance around the pulleys to find belt length. You can do that by tying a piece of string around the pulleys. If you were in the US, you could take that measurement to Autozone or NAPA and find a belt that would work. Not sure where you would do the same in Stuttgart. I assume you're working in the base auto hobby shop? Do they stock standard replacement belts? I assume that any electric fuel pump that you can find a place to mount will work as long as you get one that has the right pressure. I'll bet you could email MiniTec and they would give you a part number. Have you checked the JEGS catalog? www.jegs.com They have a good selection of electric pumps.

[eagle-co94]

There really aren't any parts stocked at the Auto Craft Shop...and the AAFES Car Care Center is a joke. We've got ATU (like Pep Boys) so I'll probably try that. If I can get the part size/number I can order anything from Autozone.com and they ship FREE to military overseas!

I think I'm going to try and use the Acura Integras in tank fuel pump and modify my stock fuel tank. Might be easier. There must be too much variation in the various B-series motors for them to lock down one belt size. I have access to the car again today so I'll be measuring and placing an order tonight. I've got one broken exhaust stud to replace as well.

[N. J.]

Brian is correct regarding the fuel pump spec. I believe that the one on my car is from a Ford pickup truck (Suppied by Mini Tec, and I didn't record the origin). It's mounted on a small sheet of 1/4" thick Nylon and bolted to the inboard side of the rear subframe on the rib formed by subframe weldment. That 's to say that it sits horizontal to the ground, just above the bottom of the rear subbie itself.

[steve]

B series engines have at least 3 different deck heights, meaning the head height from the crank pully varies, plus, there are different diameters made in both crank and alternator pulleys. We recommend cutting the orriginal belt(which is way to long to use any way), and wraping it around the pulleys, then mark it; (a piece of string will come out quite a bit smaller than the belt size you need). Go to your local auto parts store, (Pep boys type), and get a belt that matches your cut sample. they come in sizes that vary in increments of 1/8" or so.
Mounting an in-tank pump is a bit of a job with the mini tank shape. Most tanks are low and flat, with the pump mounting flange mounted on the top tank surface, and with the fuel pick-up only needing to be 6 or 8 inches down. The pumps have a filter sock on the pick-ups that needs to orient in a horizontal position, so they can be as close to the tank bottom as possible. I posted pics of the modifications necessary on this site somewhere. I mounted mine on the outboard side of the tank, and modified the pump holding bracket to correct for length and pick-up orientation. You need to leave room for the fuel level sender to swing through it's arc without interference. External type pumps make more noise, run hotter and thus may have a shorter life expectancy. You will also need to run a pre-filter with the external pump, since you will not have the filter sock that internal pumps have, to prevent damaging the close fitting internal parts of the pump. The orriginal tank outlet tube is too small to use as a pickup, but will work fine for the return line.

[eagle-co94]

My '85 Mercedes 280CE ran an external pump, that was outside the car so it got that extra airflow over it as well. I couldn't hear it inside the car, so I may look into that type of setup as I already know how it connects. There's room in the rear subframe area so that'd be where I'd mount it. Running the fuel lines will be fun.

[Red Riley]

Well, yeah. The string idea would just get you into the ball park. Steve's idea is a good one if you have the old belt.

[eagle-co94]

I'll have to resort to the string idea because I think I tossed the belt. I've only got the 2 smaller belts left at this point.

[steve]

If you use the Merc pump, make sure it will supply the required pressure at the required flow rating. If it works out well, Let us know; a quiet external pump would be a nice option, providing it doesn't have the typical MB price tag. Internal OEM Honda/Acura pumps can be had on line for as low as 30$; what I paid for mine.

[eagle-co94]

Steve, do you happen to know what the flow rate and PSI requirements are for the B-series motors?

[steve]

I did, but I forgot. I even pressure flowed my Ebay pump to make sure it was up to spec. Check on Hondatech.com. You will find it pretty quick there. Also, it is in the Helms Manuals in the spec section.

[Furyof4]

Most stock civic pumps flow 79lph @ 40psi and Integra pumps flow 135lph @ 40 psi. These are off the top of my head so exact figures maybe off but close. A great alternative is the walbro pump if you're looking for something new.

They're not too expensive and are proven reliable.
http://www.autoperformanceengineering.com/html/ext_pump.html

[AA_driver]

Fo4
Same pump on my car

[eagle-co94]

Fury, thanks for posting the link...found a vendor on fleabay selling it for $80 shipped...so it's enroute right now! Now to pick up some lines...

[Furyof4]

No problem. They are great pumps for the price.

[eagle-co94]

Latest dilemma...the motor is in the car and the subframe bolted down...and the idler pulley on the MiniTec supplied alternator bracket is making contact with the body at the bottom of the shock mount. I will be pulling the motor out again when the shop opens again, but didn't plan on having an issue with that...and it looks like the alternator may not fit correctly either...or it's just that tight.

[Red Riley]

Don't be surprised if you have to make minor adjustments to the sheetmetal to get it all fitted. It gets to be a really tight squeeze in places.

[N. J.]

The picture on the website of that end of the engine shows it to be a tight fit to the frame tube. Check it out for reference. There is enough variation from Mini to Mini to make fitting tight components a challenge. That's one reason I've no regrets about my RHD requiring an extended nose. Steve here on the forum can tell you that he put a whale of a lot of hours in to make a go of it for his frames (albeit utilizing more standard Mini components than you have). It is certainly possible that your car could be out of whack (or maybe even crunched at one time) enough to create a unique geometry in that area. More evidence that these are not erector sets and require some fiddling to get right.

Send some pics to BJ and Norman and see if they can advise.

N J

[steve]

If it is just touching, I wouldn't worry about it; just bend something a little. But if it is preventing something from going together, try loosening up all the subframe mounting bolts, with a jack under the motor, and use a big pry bar or 2 x 4 to re position the subby a little, while someone else tightens up the bolts again. this could get you as much as a 1/16" more clearance, which is a lot in these swaps. You can also loosen up all the motor mount bolts and do the same. You might get a lot of "Shift" with an MB kit, as they probably make their bolt holes to nominal sizes, or even larger, to allow for adjustment. We do it a different way with our kits; we will make many bolt holes, especially in the motor mounts, actually smaller than the nominal bolt size, as the bolts themselves are actually made 6 to 12 thousandths smaller than their stated size. This way, things can only fit in one place, as they must, in order to have clearance. No adjustment is possible, but none is needed; this way, things line up the first time. If there is still a fit issue, it is the car, not the kit, and any straightening or clearancing necessary, should be done to the body, as it is the part that is off. Both design approaches can work; you just need to be aware of which one you are dealing with.