Vtec wiring harness

[Nicholasupton]

Complete wiring harness for any d or b- series vtec or non vtec wiring harness. 100% Brand new and not a hacked up harness that is sold by everyone else. Connects from the motor directly to the ECU and compatible with OBD1 or OBD2a/b just let me know. Uses properly shield wire where needed, and all connectors are labeled for easy instantiation. no solder joints in the harness.

$650 basic
$950 with Mil spec firewall connector.

[steve]

I shouldn't do this, but I'm gonna any way, because of the way this guy stalks me around the internet, making false accusations about our conversion. So, in answer to Nicholas's post:

Do the wire colors match the Honda/Acura colors so problems can be traced using the manual? or are all the wires the same color?
Does it include new main and auxiliary fuse boxes pre wired into the circuits, with labled circuit name and amp values?
Does it include circuits with conectors for the Main, fan or other relays?
Does it include the following?:
Alternator circuits with connectors?
Starter motor wiring with terminals?
Turn signal flasher circuit with terminals?
Brake light switch circuit, with terminals?
Scan tool ? diagnostic circuit and port?
Parking brake warning light switch circuit with terminals?
Will it plug into the Mini ignition switch pig tail connector?
Will it plug into the Mini steering column switches...Hi-Lo beams, turn sigs, dip switch, horn?
Will it plug into the Mini switch panel...lights, etc?
will it plug into a Honda/Acura instrument cluster, or are all the gauges, warning lights, back lighting, check engine light, wires labled?
Does the harness include head lights, park lights, turn signals, horn and fan wiring with connectors?
Does the harness include wire leads with connectors for tail lights, rear turn signals, brake lights, fuel pump, gas gauge sender, license plate light, dome light?

Does all of the above include type written lables on each and every wire end and connector?
Does it come with instructions on ECU mounting locations, Hidden-harness routing directions, locations for attaching points with supplied harness clamps?
Does it include fully soldered splices where required with shrink tubing insulation, or just crimped splices and tape?
Is the under hood portion of the harness wrapped in corrugated tubing for abrasion & heat resistance, or just taped?

Nick, if you can answer "yes" (honestly) to more than just 3 of these questions, I will be very surprised. These questions are all a "yes" for the Ramco Conversion Harness.

Our Plug-and-Play-plus harness, doesn't just get the engine started, it completes every necessary circuit on the Mini, from bumper to bumper, to the highest spec, with only one hole in the bulkhead required,(in the left fender well, where it does not show), It is a single harness, with no intermediate connectors to come loose or create a bad connection. The stock Mini rear wiring harness plugs in at the left "A" pillar, and only the wiper circuit is not included in the harness, as there is variation in different models.

Basic Harness.........$550 plus honda donor harness, or 100$ core charge
Plug-and-play..........$750 plus Honda donor harness, or 100$ core charge
Plug-and-play plus...$810 plus Honda donor harness, or 100$ core charge

[Nicholasupton]

Harness uses all factory colors and marking, has standard OBD connector, no more counting the CEL. Uses standard Honda PGMIF relay. connect from the engine directly to the ECU, and professional labels printed and heat shrink. All shrink tubing is adhesive lined to prevent moisture from entering the harness. Connectors for Power, ground fuel pump and gauges ready to adapt into your car of choice.

[steve]

Looks well done; Connectors for what make gauges? is that just power, ground, fuel pump, gauges, ECU and sensors for 950$? Is that all the circuits?

[eagle-co94]

Steve, what company are you with? I don't see a signature for you or reference to what company you work for in your screenname or post.

[steve]

Eagle, We have a small Mini/VTEC conversion kit business in So. California. Click on my name in the post heading, to get to my profile page, scroll down to the Photo galleries; one for our conversion kit, and one with some shots of my own personal build. There should be pics of our wiring harness there as well. We do mostly USA sales and a few in Canada. Shipping internationally is very expensive, but at least in Germany, the steering wheel is on the left side, so our Harness and conversion kit will fit.

[eagle-co94]

I'm actually stationed in Germany, but I'm a fan of the original so I bought my car sight unseen on ebay.co.uk and flew up to London to pick up my car last year. I drove it back 600 miles with only a few issues...like major oil leakage. I'm already underway with a MiniTec subframe, but I'll take a peek into what you've got to offer. The best part about being over here is I've got quick access to the good stuff. A weekend trip to the UK will net me a LOT of large parts like my rollcage, new dash and wheels/tires. :D

[steve]

So did you get a right hand drive car? You will need to extend the body and wheel base forward to make that work properly. Good luck with that MT frame; you would have been much better off getting an "Allspeed" kit, from the UK; better design, fewer problems, no shipping cost.
Forgot to mention before, that our product is listed in this site's forum headings ,under "Sub Frames", as Alexander-Ramco Conversions.

[eagle-co94]

Yes, I've got a RHD car. I've got the MTB2 kit so I don't need to extend the front end of the car, nor do I need to do a flip front. I also went with the MTB2 kit so that I can modify the trans mount later and get their AWD rear subframe and run a Honda CR-V AWD transmission.

[steve]

There is not enough space for the diff on a right hand drive, without either extending the body work, or cutting out the floor and re-locating the steering rack to the rear about 3 inches. This is a bad idea for several reasons, but you already crossed that bridge, so hope you are satisfied with the results.

[eagle-co94]

Are the RHD cars a problem with your subframe as well? I've already cut and modified the floor, but from the looks of it it's only about 1.5-2" of movement to the rear as the floorpan itself is only recesses about 1-1.5". From sitting in the car it doesn't feel like much intrusion into the footwell since it's all behind the pedals right now anyways.

[steve]

It needs to go more than that, or else the engine can't come back far enough. they might be dropping it down as it goes back, which would help. probably have to grind as much as possible off the rack knuckle too, and maybe leave the engine forward a bit with the drive shafts angling back to the wheels, or moving the wheels forward an inch or so. if the engine doesn't get back far enough, there will be cutting of the front valence necessary for the exhaust manifold clearance. You will need longer steering arms on the hubs too, in order to maintain correct geometry, and this will slow down the steering and increase the turning radius (bigger U turns). The main issue with cutting out that section of the floor is that it is one of the highest stressed areas on the car. the tunnel to firewall joint is probably the heaviest(thickest) part of the body for good reason, and you are removing it and replacing it with a 90 degree step that has no vertical strength at all. It should be heavily reinforced. a diagonal panel should bridge from the horizontal portion of the floor, forward to the toe board, and lay across/fasten to the top rear edge of the replacement panel you have installed. It should tie into the inner fender wells and sills at both ends. I would use at least 18 gauge for this, and emboss it with stiffening channels similar to the ones in the floor and oriented in the same fore/aft direction if possible. You can't over do it; you have added considerable weight and power to the car and taken away a major structural section at the same time.
Regarding our kit, No, we don't acommodate the right hand drive apps. It is not a matter of whos kit you use, but of how much space is available in the Mini. We would rather not take on the liability involved with having our customers cut the bodies in this area, and we think the steering arm issue is not an acceptable solution either. I feel that the only proper solution to the problem, baring a space framed build and custom, long travel rack, is to make the simple/easy switch to left drive. But like I mentioned before, your in it already, so just be aware of the issues and make the best of it.

[eagle-co94]

I guess that's the problem I've got as well as all the brits. I'm not interested in a LHD car at all, so I have to find a solution for RHD. There are actually several RHD cars here (Japanese spec) in addition to the RHD Minis and other cars that make it over from the UK.

[steve]

Yeah, about half the Minis around here are RHD. I have two RHD pickups myself. One is getting a Suzuki motor soon, no probs with the rack, as the diff is on the other side.